Author: Constantine Cavafy | Cavafy travelled for the first time in Greece in the summer of 1901 during a period of leave from his job. The poet was 38 years old and was accompanied by his brother Alexandros. Travelling to Athens with Cavafy is a fascinating experience. We above all discover that despite the fact that a hundred and ten years have gone by and even dramatic changes have occurred in the capital, especially after the arrival of the million and a half refugees of Asia Minor, the city centre has preserved the broad outline of its physiognomy. The urban grid, shaped like a large isosceles triangle and dating from the time of King Otto is still the most obvious trait of Athens, while the large public buildings that are visited today would have been seen by Cavafy in the same way. The majority of changes have occurred in the archaeological zone which at the time of Cavafy was still partially inhabited, and in human geography. Many theatres, cafes and buildings mentioned by Cavafy no longer exist, being unable to survive the historical watershed between 1922 and 1949, which effectively marks the start of a new chapter in the history of “Athens the Capital” but above all marks the demographic and urban boom of the city.
Ancient relics, great and small, mirror a glorious past that remains an example to the world, but they are only the start of what’s great about Athens today. There are the mountains that surround it, busy with climbers, runners and picnic-lovers during the weekends. The ubiquitous graffiti, some admirable, some abhorrent, that reveal what’s bugging the Athenians’ psyche. Bars, cafes and restaurants thronged with broke Greeks who refuse to stay inside. Stores where you can find vendors as venerable as their antiques and others that are up to date with the edgiest demands. And many surprising, sometimes downright dark, dank and mysterious pockets. Athens is changing day by day. This book will take you to places that are beyond touristy or trendy; whether hundreds of years old or contemporary, their tales are timeless.
